Ayutthaya City
The three chedis of Wat Phra Si
Sanphet. |
Just 80 kilometers (50 miles) north of Bangkok is the old
capitol of Ayutthaya
(or Ayuthaya, or even Ayodhaya. No
matter how you spell it, its pronounced ah-you-tah-ya.)
The city became Thailand's capitol in the mid-14th
century and remained the capitol until the late 18th
century. About the time that Americans were tossing tea
into Boston harbor, the Burmese attacked and sacked
Ayutthaya.
The Ayutthaya period is looked on
by many as the time when much of what is now thought of as
"Thai style" was developed. In temples, this is when you
see a marked transition from the Khmer style "prangs" to
the bell shaped "chedi." While Sukothai further north is
seen as the birth of the Thai kingdom, Ayutthaya is seen
today as its high point. Around Ayutthaya are signs of the
Japanese, French, Dutch and Portuguese traders that came
to the Thai court.
Ayutthaya is a relatively low-key
site. You can spend a leisurely day here, or a quick stop,
all with relatively low pressure compared to many other
tourist sites. From Ayutthaya you can quickly get on an
expressway and be back in Bangkok in about an hour.
History & Orientation
Map of the old city environs.
Click on one of the red dots to display detailed
information about each sight, or see the summaries
below. |
The old city itself was founded in 1351 on an island about
4 kilometers (2.5 miles) wide, formed by the confluence of
the Chaophraya, Lopburi and Pasak Rivers. A wall once
encircled the entire island, though only a few bits of it
can be seen today. U Thong, who later became King
Ramathibodi I, is credited with the city's founding.
The city grew rich on the produce
of the land, as well as by exploiting expanding trade
routes between India and China. The empire grew to control
most of what is now Thailand, and by the time the first
Europeans arrived in the mid-17th century,
Ayutthaya was a city of more than a million people --
double the population of London at the time. The city sat
at the center of a network of nearly 140 kilometers of
canals. This "Golden Age" of Siam came to a close after
little more than 400 years when the Burmese sacked the
city, setting fire to the temples, carting off the gold
and leveling important buildings such as the kings palace.
What remains today are a few
ruins scattered among grassy fields. The main sights are
concentrated in the northwest corner of the island, while
the modern town hugs the east coast. There are also
numerous other attractions spread around the opposite side
of the rivers.
Ayutthaya Sights
The main historical sights lie in
the northwest corner of the island. These sights can
easily be explored on foot or, better, bicycle. A number
of other very interesting sights can be found on the banks
of the rivers opposite to the city, but these are much
more spread out. You may need to rent a motorcycle or
samlor to explore these.
The Inner City
In addition to the ruins listed
here, the inner city is also home to two or three museums
worth a visit.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet
The three bell-shaped chedis of Wat Phra Si Sanphet have
practically become a symbol of Ayutthaya. The temple
stands almost in the center of the main area of the old
capital.
Wat Phra Ram
Just across the street from Wat Phra Si Sanphet is the
towering prang of Wat Phra Ram, an excellent example of a
Khmer style temple from the begining of the Ayutthaya
period.
Wat Ratburana
Closer to the current city center, Wat Ratburana was built
in 1424 to hold the ashes of the king's two older
brothers, who killed each other fighting over the throne.
Wat Mahathat
The temple was built in the early days of Ayutthaya in the
late 14th century by King Borommaracha I. The story goes
that the king had a revelation, and relics of the Buddha
then suddenly appeared. The temple was built to house the
relics.
Across the Rivers
To the north, west and south of the island are several
temples dating from the city's golden age, or even before.
The remains of the Portuguese and Japanese communities are
also just south of the island, on opposite sides of the
Chaophraya River.
Wat Phanan Choeng
On the south side of Ayutthaya, right where the Chaophraya
and Pasak rivers join up, is one of Ayutthaya's oldest
temples, and one of its most lively to this day. The huge
Buddha image around which the temple was built was cast in
1324.
Wat Yai Chai Mongkon
At the southeast edge of town lies the huge bell-shaped
chedi of Wat Ya Chai Mongkon. The chedi was built in 1592
by one of Ayutthaya's greatest kings, Nareusan the Great,
to commemorate a victory over the Burmese won in the same
year. The temple itself was established earlier, in 1357,
by King Ramathibodi as a meditation site for monks
returning from pilgrimages to Sri Lanka.
Wat Na Phra Mane
This small but interesting temple just north of the royal
island has played a very pivotal role in the history of
Ayutthaya.
Wat Phu Khao Thong (The Golden Mount)
Out in the flat plain of rice fields and fish ponds
northwest of town rises the stark white chedi of Wat Phu
Khao Thong. The name literally translates to "Golden
Mount."
Wat Chai Wattanaram
Standing right on the river, Wat Chai Wattanaram is, in
our view, one of the most impressive of the remaining
monuments of old Ayutthaya.
Wat Phutthaisawan
Almost due south of the old town, on the south bank of the
Chaophraya River, is the very old temple of Wat
Phutthaisawan. With its freshly whitewashed classically
styled prang, the temple is easy to overlook. Most
guidebooks do, but don't you make that mistake. The
temple, with its skewed architecture, is quite
interesting.
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